I've been thinking for weeks about how best to organize the next few posts on my travels, where to put the division lines.
I left Bangkok the night of March 28, just to keep you up to speed with chronology. I forgot to mention one Bangkok anecdote: I was walking down the street towards my hostel and was passing Patpong Market. Something seemed really strange and eerie, then I realized that none of the stalls had their lights on, indeed most had candles. I immediately assumed that the power was out and I looked in to the permanent shops but their lights were on. Confused I started formulating explanations like a fuse was blown in the market's power supply. Then I passed some police cars and a camera crew. Then my imagination really got going. The answer came to me on a t-shirt: Earth Hour 2009. How cool is that?
Now, I had been to Ayutthaya, the UNESCO designated World Heritage site, former Thai capital. I'm not one to miss out on more sweet ruins so I went to the capital that preceded that one, also a World Heritage site, Sukhothai.
There's an excellent night sleeper train from Bangkok to Chiang Mai. If you time it right you can save on time and money by sleeping on the train and stopping off on places along the way. I took a pleasant fan-cooled sleeper bunk train to Phitsanulok. I arrived just as it was dawning and was able to stash my big bag in a room at the station. After a quick bite I took a cyclo (or trishaw or whatever you wanna call it) to the bus station as the sun was coming up and the monks were returning from their alms rounds. Then I got a bus for an hour to Sukhothai, and then a shared mini van to the historical park. Then I rented a bicycle to get around.
These temples and other ruins have more obvious associations with Hindism, especially lingas and yonis which I hadn't known about before. I learned a lot about Hindu-Buddhist art and architecture and its Thai chronology. The Sukhothai period was know for its standing Buddhas. The creature garuda is the national symbol of Thailand and also the symbol of the monarchy. I wrote this in my journal "I think we're too plain and obsessed with realism and science in Canada. We would never use a crazy monster symbol like in association with our leaders." I really loved Sukhothai, it was more peaceful and less-frequented by tourists, at least when I was there. Really beautiful place.
Sawngthaew (pick-up truck with benches) to the bus station, bus to Phitsanulok, moto to train station. I hadn't been able to book another sleeper bunk that morning so I was in second class for the night trip up to Chiang Mai. Another interesting transportation experience to add to the list. These were rickety but reclining seats. There were fans, the lights were always on, and the windows were open, letting in the loud clickety-clack, various pungents smells, and every insect attracted by the lights or swept in by the wind came to join us. I'd wake up every so often and have to dust the dead bugs off me. The drink and food vendors were there but in fewer numbers and there were no people standing in the aisles, though they were between the cars. I didn't sleep much but I kept thinking about the miserable trip the third-class passengers must be having.
As I stepped off the train I felt a migraine coming on. I haven't had one for a couple years. It starts with one of my hands becoming numb and tingly and the sentation passes up through my arm, into my neck and face, down my throat and up to my eye. When I first notice it I usually stop all activity and go to bed, except for the time I was in the middle of an exam and this time getting off a night train in Thailand. Luckily I'd phoned ahead the day before to book a room so I got in a tuk-tuk and got there fine. But reception didn't open for almost an hour. Then the bed wasn't available until midday. Fuck, I was dying. I was able to eat, book a short cooking course for that night, then crash on the daybeds on a rooftop terrace. When I finally got to the room I slept the rest of the day and woke up fine.
I had a limited time in Chiang Mai because I'd booked a flight to Mae Hong Son. I planned to return to CM anyway. I hadn't planned on doing a cooking course but there was one just for an evening. I was really glad I did, I had a lot of fun. It was just me and a German couple and the thing was done at the chef's home just out of town. We made pad thai, curry, tom yum, some other stuff. I learned about some ingredients and got a cookbook out of it, included.
When I returned I started chatting with a lovely nice American girl, Katie, who had been to Manitoulin Island (how unusual and awesome is that!) and we eventually went out for food/drinks with a whole crowd of Aussies, Canadians, American, Swede, UK... I had my heart set on reggae and dancing, both together ideally. We hopped around as each place shooed us out. We ended up at a place called THC, a really chill place with reaggae so I was very happy. Then a cute thing happened, and Katie forgive me but I thought it was so adorable. Katie was up getting a drink and a nice-looking French boy said something to her. Now, she's taken French before but was startled and nervous and sometimes we forget our languages when that happens (even our native tongue). She told me the little story when she got back and pointed him out. He notioced us looking/talking about him so he came over. (I might add that this simple assertive but unaggressive action gave me a very favourable first impression of him, nice work Olivier!). Katie was so cute trying to practice her French but slipping into Spanish all the time, and Olivier was so lovely and patient.
So the whole crowd (including new additions and subtractions) hauled off to somewhere else. Not sure cuz the rum and coke buckets were starting to get to me a little, but I know there was dancing and I know I talked about Paris Combo, and I know I danced with some Thai girls and one told me right away she likes boys and not girls (just in case I guess). There is photographic evidence of a tuk-tuk ride with like 10 people inside. Anyway arrived upstairs at some breakfast place having, well, breakfast as the sun was coming up and then everyone was pairing off. Just me and Olivier and Damien, two lovely French boys, were left; lucky me! I was pleased to find I could converse fairly easily in French and not be talking about school, Aliant telecommunications, or breastfeeding (...yeah, old call center job). I rolled in around 10 am and slept. Then caught the plane that afternoon. Needless to say really, but I didn't see a single tourist or historical or religious site in Chiang Mai and I didn't end up backtracking there. But I had a fabulous time. I met a pair of lovely, outgoing, positive Aussie ladies that I'd run into again later.
I sound like a teenager, retelling a "night out" story but what the hell.
Next post will be about Mae Hong Son and Soppong.
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