October 3-5/08, Friday to Sunday.
I got to Sokcho no problem Thursday night, at like 1:30am. I went into a little motel behind the bus terminal, luckily they were still up. It was perfectly located for me and get this: 20 000w/night (~20 CAD). The room was small but with bathroom and TV and small fridge with water and Vita 500 (vitamin C drink). It worked out SO well. I stayed there all three nights.
So on Friday I just started walking. I had had vague plans but I woke up late and laid them aside a bit. I saw some beaches, and fishing stuff. There was squid drying EVERYWHERE. I saw some squid boats with the special lights. I even came across a little squid cleaning plant. Shallow concrete vats with ajummas sitting on pails cleaning squid. They have this specialty that I didn't try, it's squid sundae (sausage). Instead of meat and stuff stuffed in an intestine, it's stuffed in a squid tube. I came across some in a market but I had already had a feed of raw fish. I really wanna try it though. I did have a squid deop bap though, just squid and veggies in a spicy sauce with rice. I had to complete the squid cycle: live squid in tanks, squid boats and fishing gear, squid cleaning, squid drying, squid packaged for sale, squid eating!
I went on this 100-year old cable ferry across one of the harbours to this village which is featured in the hit Korean TV show Autumn of My Heart. Never heard of it. Ugh what a lame title anyway. The market I saw was pretty cool. Right on the port, dry fish vendors on the land side, live fish and food venders on the water side, alongside fishing boats. I saw this little out of the way something too. Probably an old scholar's house or small shrine of something. It was deserted and locked up. It was up a little hill through some old houses and near some military "don't come in here" place. Sokcho is really likeable: pretty laid back, on the ocean, fishing-ness, Seorak nearby. Korean Newfoundland maybe. Why am I working in Daejeon again?
So I walked all along the coast and then got a bus to Naksan (part of my earlier plan) which was like 10 minutes away. I saw a very small insectarium. And, one of the best temples I've seen in Korea. Bested maybe only by that one in Songnisan with the Big Jesus Buddha (Brad's moniker for it). It's on a hill right on the ocean. It's main attraction is a big white statue of the goddess of mercy. You can see the Seorak range from Sokcho and so you can from Naksan. There's a little shrine for her just down the hill a bit dug into the hill with a window so that when you are in there venerating you can see the top part of the statue: her head and shoulders, through the window. It is SO neat. That's not all. The main hall has a big gold Kannon statue (Kannon is the Japanese name, dunno what the Koreans call it) and six other multi-limbed and multi-headed deities, and many many small statues in gold colour and wood in behind and a gold coloured embossed scene of something or other I dunno but it's stunning. I took as many pictures as I could until they told me I couldn't. I'm a bad person but it was so cool.
Next day I slept in later than I wanted but I was ready to go at 8:30 but the next bus to where I wanted wasn't til 1030. So I went to a lighthouse. There were some exposed rocks with ppl fishing and magnificent waves crashing (nothing like Cape Spear of course) so I took some pictures and chilled out. I went up the lighthouse and got some cool pics of the town and mountains. Then I got the bus to Osaek.
Lonely Planet said the quickest route to the peak of Seorak, Daecheongbong, was from Osaek. I started my hike around 11:45. I had packed fairly light except the 2L of water. My GOD the first 1.3 km was HELL. I kept doubting myself, I didn't think I was gonna make it up, I kept stopping, I was worrying I was going too slow to make it back down in time to catch a bus back to Sokcho, I was cursing myself for not being fit, I was thinking how I've let myself go physically, I was thinking that if Brad were there I woulda pushed myself harder. But that was the worst. I was fine for the rest of the way up. I was wearing my waegukin (foreigner) shirt and good lord did the Koreans ever fucking love it. Every third person I passed the other way would comment and laugh about it, give a thumbs up, joke with me about it ("Are you a foreigner?" "Yes, how did you know?"...*points at himself* "Hangukin (Korean)"), they'd say "right on," "very good!" "wonderful!" It was a riot. I felt like the whole mountain was talking about me. I think they get that the joke is the redundancy but I think they like that waeguk is wearing a hangul (Korean language) T-shirt. You don't see that everyday.
I fell in with a couple from Daegu. He spoke English well enough, is an automotive engineer. She was cheery and nice, only spoke Korean though. They shared their lunch. I didn't have much to offer. Crappy kimbap. Didn't wanna insult them.
I reached the peak in about three hours from the trailhead. It was all clouded over so there wasn't any view. It's not that spectacular a peak, if you remember, unless there was a view I think. I got the pictures, built my inukshuk and flew down the mountain. I almost ran most of the way and didn't stop til halfway. Then I stopped and refuelled. Calves were getting shakey by then. I had recalled a story my coworker Jeff told me about a man he met on the Chuseok weekend on a mountain, can't remember which one, but near Chungju Lake. He had said it's best to go down the mountain like water, follow the path of least resistance. Easier on the joints and everything. So that's what I had been doing. But then I arrived at the pitch of hell again (I went up the way I came). I went over a bit on each ankle and that scared me into snail pace. It wasn't as hard as the way up but man it was hard. 1.3km of uneven rock stairs. By that point no one was passing anyone unless they had stopped. We were all taking our time. It was almost 5 o'clock so the light was fading a bit, which added to the anxiety a little. I was so relieved when I made it to the entrance and it was still light out. I duck walked a little down the sloping road. Very slowly. I got some hydration and ramyeon and got the bus back.
The colours were out alittle, especially near the top. But this particular trail was straight to business and there were no vistas to take pictures of because of the tree cover. I didn't mind because I planned to go to the more famous part with the bare rocky bits the next day. But when I inquired about the bus to Daejeon there was only one at 1145am. I didn't wanna muck around with many kinds of transpo and it had rained the night before I probably woulda had the same cloud issue and risk of more rain, and I may not have been able to make it anywhere the state my legs were in. So I took the looooong bus ride back, which turned out to be through a gorgeous mountain river valley most of the way and through idyllic farming villages. I was so proud of myself though. I made it up and down on my own steam two hours short of the Lonely Planet estimate. I really want to go back to Seorak to see the really scenic places and a temple within the national park but I feel like that'll be easy and I can do it anytime since the mountain and I have come to terms.
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